At some point mid-evening the two long boats next to us left on their journeys, giving us an uninterrupted view of the other bank. It's not the view we had from our hotel on our first nights here but it is wonderful nonetheless.

I had the alarm set for an early start and I was the first person on the Aquavit Terrace upstairs. It has an outside area which, at 9 degrees C, didn't do it for me. The Americans who arrived soon after thought the 50 degrees F would be fine, and it could have been had it not been wet out there.

The walk to the Benu (chemist) was quite different with folks going to work or school - something we haven't encountered on our travels so far since we've mainly been out in the middle of the day. I must admit, I was pleased when I walked in to the Benu and said 'Good morning' and the person behind the counter said 'Good morning' back. I had done my homework and had checked how Google Translate was going to say 'nasal spray' but I was still relieved the transaction could be conducted in English

Some of the others, including Sooz, were at breakfast when I arrived back so (5k steps later) I joined them for a coffee and a pastry.

Then we were off again, this time to the Synagogue, the second largest in the world (I think). Only Amsterdam is bigger and hopefully it won't be closed for the observance of a Jewish Holiday until after we leave, like Budapest is. It was such a disappointment that we weren't able to go in although I think Sooz was happy to at least have seen an Hasidic Jew nearby.

We could have visited the Synagogue the other day when we passed it on the HOHO bus but at that stage Sooz wasn't feeling strong enough to relive the stories of the persecution and murder of Budapest Jews during the Second World War. When I went past in the HOHO again later that day, the gates were closed and it seems they haven't been open since. The website would have you believe otherwise, but it would be wrong.

Next stop this morning was the New York Cafe which had been highly recommended to us by AM and by our mates who have already been there this trip. Before we arrived there though, on our walk on side streets rather than down the main thoroughfare, Sooz saw a Kosher Mart and then noticed the Hebrew writing on the wall next to her. It was marking the boundary of the war-time Jewish ghetto. We were definitely in the Jewish Quarter; it didn't make up for not being able to go in to the Synagogue but it did make her feel closer to their heritage.

We met M at the New York Cafe. Some places can bring you to tears and this certainly did me. It is so huge, so ornate and so full of presence that I could not help but be moved, especially when the musicians started playing familiar, favourite pieces. We had a light repast - nothing for Sooz (although our server did bring three forks for our two dishes), pancakes for M and a selection of New York cake tastes for me. Yum. I am slowly getting used to the coffee tasting different in Europe and I know the glass of water (?) served with my Latte was there for a reason, but I'm still not sure what that was.

They have musicians at the New York Cafe - a band of four, one of whom, the violinist, stands on the stairway with the others on the landing at the top of the stairs. At one point, the violinist came over and asked where we were from (Australia), and was there anything we wanted him to play - and when we didn't answer immediately, he started playing 'Waltzing Matilda'.

We Bolted back to the boat for a light lunch. Sooz and M's swim packs had already been delivered to the rooms for their excursion to the Turkish Baths this afternoon. Sooz wasn't feeling up to it so it was good Vi wanted to go and Sooz's ticket didn't go to waste.

Remember that laundromat I mentioned yesterday? I made it back there today with our laundry. It's really just a room with two washing machines, two dryers, a sorting table, a token dispenser and a seat. But there is a decent cafe next door so I was able to while away some time there, watching Budapest go by. I was there a little longer than I'd hoped because the dryer took nearly two hours to dry the clothes (what do you call a dryer that doesn't?) but we have freshly-cleaned dried clothes for our departure from Budapest. What a wonderful city!

M did the included tour this morning and she said it was very well conducted. She also reiterated that the Hungarians have a wonderful sense of humour - which has been evident over the time we've spent here. The tour took M up to Buda Castle and while she was there she found Sooz and I a souvenir - a Budapest magnet. It features the Chain Bridge and its lions - which are similar to the lions in London's Trafalgar Square. Just for the moment, I can't remember which were modelled on which, but I know some were.

We sailed just after dark this evening so we were able to see Budapest illuminated and in all its glory. We hadn't seen the Parliament House at night before, so this was very special. There were a few of us on the sunroof watching Budapest slide by in the night.

We are going to be cruising the Danube until we make port in Vienna late tomorrow afternoon (somewhere between 5 and 7pm) and there are a few activities planned to keep all 190-odd of us entertained.